I keep this lid and a shot glass of powder on my work bench. This surface is flexible and later it can be cleaned easily.
To make flat pieces, I roll out the mixed putty on a small vinyl Tupperware lid. However, this is also when it's the most difficult to work with to shape and form on its own. This is when it's best for filling gaps, etc, since it will stick to the plastic better than after setting some. When first mixed, the putty is generally much stickier than after it sets for a few minutes. A lot of times with both types, though, you'll need to slice off the old end to get to the fresh putty before cutting off your mixing portion.) The "flat" ribbons last longer than the round sticks because when sliced straight down, there's less cross contamination than when slicing the round sticks with one part in the center surrounded by the second part. (The blue-yellow putty is simply sliced off the two-part stick. Use water to clean the putty from your finger tips. Protecting the putty from air and light will make it last longer. Wrap up the Milliput sticks tightly in the plastic bags that they came in and keep these stuffed back in the box. The excess is returned to the correct sticks for use later. I try to only mix what I need, so for small jobs, I'll often cut the part A and B balls in halves or quarters before mixing. I judge the sizes, and if one is larger than the other, I'll trim it with a hobby knife (return the excess to the correct stick). I roll these between my fingers to make balls of part A and B. Re: Thank you and another question to youįor mixing, I pinch off small blobs from the main sticks. P.S.: Excellent interior finish and facial painting hats off to you!
Michaels milliput putty how to#
Maybe I´m the only noob who dont know how to use it properly but it seems you are the right one to ask here :-) May I ask you for a small tutorial as how to do such nice covers or shell bags with this material? I already tried it one or two times but failed miserably with sticky fingers and clunky results. I will then go for the grey-yellow (medium) one. Thank you very much for your thorough explanation and the pictures. (This is about the limit of what I can do with it in regards to thinness.) On the figure, the leather neck guard and chin strap were both made from medium Milliput. The weather cover is still in the raw Milliput color (the front hooks are not installed in this test fit photo). The empty shell bag was made around a rectangular top frame of round styrene rod. Here're a couple of examples of what can be done with the medium (Gray-Yellow) Milliput. It'll also work pretty well for many other tasks. This type of putty doesn't sand very well, but the Milliput epoxies do sand very nicely once set hard.įor general filling and shaping, the Milliput Grey-Yellow (medium) works quite well for me. That type retains some flexibility and has a very smooth, "bubble gum" texture. It's considerably cheaper than the Superfine White (which I have also used), and frankly, I can't tell any difference after priming.įor figure work, I have found that Milliput can be brittle in very thin sections, so one of the Blue-Yellow "Green Stuff" types works better for straps, open folds, etc. I generally use the Gray-Yellow (medium) for almost everything. Re: Which Milliput Putty for which purpose? can someone brief me which one should be used for which purpose?Ĭurrent Projects:Icebreaker Arktika 1:350, Challenger 3, PLA ZBD-03 airborne tank Churchill bridgelayer I saw the Milliput Puttys at my Hobby Shop of Choice but there are quite a few different ones: Black one, Silver, Terracotta, superfine white.
I want to close some vent holes from a submarine (yes I also build submarines) and discovered that my Vallejo Plastip Putty 401 is obviously not the right choice as it shrinks a bit and is breaking away when sanding. Unless specified, offers and vouchers are not valid on products which are already discounted from RRP, gift vouchers, books and from the I LOVE ART range.Modelling / Construction The Construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. *All discounts against RRP are made against the United Kingdom Recommended Retail Price (RRP).
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